Cold process soap is made by combining oils, butters and sodium hydroxide (lye) to induce a chemical reaction called saponification. Saponification is defined as the conversion of fat, oil or lipid, into soap and alcohol by the action of heat in the presence of an aqueous alkali (in this process, NaOH). Soaps are made by the cleavage of ester bonds in the chemical reaction of saponification, releasing fatty acids salts and glycerol. In traditional cold process soap making, glycerol is not extracted from the soap, which can act as a natural humectant for the skin. Early hard soaps were manufactured using animal fats and alkali extracted from wood ash.

Oils and lye water are emulsified until the batter reaches ‘trace’. As the soap sits, it will continue to thicken until completely saponified and thickened. At this point, the batter may reach temperatures in excess of 180 degrees Farenheit. Intricate designs are created at a thin to medium trace as the batter is fluid and able to be manipulated. Natural colorants, additives and micas as well as fragrance oils or essential oils are added at emulsification to create designs and scents. Milks and salts can also be incorporated to create lather or hardness in the final product.

As the batter saponifies, the soap may go through gel phase, where it takes on a gelatinous appearance. Gelled soap has a slightly shiny appearance, but gelling is not required for cold process soap making.

Technically, cold process soap is safe to use after a few days, however, we recommend letting soap cure for 4-6 weeks in order to allow for evaporation of excess water. This can create a harder and more mild bar that will last longer. Our signature soaps use various types of milk and seawater from the Atlantic Ocean.